Ask Pinkbike: bike sizing, sponsorship and one bike to do it all

Let’s first look at the size charts of these manufacturers. These charts are a good starting point, but it’s important to keep in mind that these are suggestions, not hard and fast rules. You’re trying to find the bike that’s best for you, and you alone – deviating from the recommendations is no reason to worry. Now, if you told me that at 6’3″ you were planning on buying a size small, well, that might be something you’re worried about, but it doesn’t seem to be.

The fact that you have found a litter number that works for you is a great place to start. Reach is useful for determining what a bike will look like when you get out of the saddle – your descent position. Too much reach can make it hard to put weight on the front wheel, while too little reach can make a bike feel cramped, like you’re going over the handlebars. Personally I’ve found it to be about 20mm to suit my height, although it’s very possible to go even further either way – it’s amazing how much the human body can be adaptable.

However, range is only part of the equation. The effective length of the top tube is another useful number to consider. This one gives you an idea of ​​how the bike will feel when you’re seated, which is important because that’s what you’ll be doing for much of every ride. The angle of a bicycle’s seat tube has a big influence on the effective length of the top tube. For example, take the Mondraker Superfoxy. The size wide has a reach of 490mm and a seat tube angle of 75.5 degrees, resulting in a fairly long top tube length of 651mm. Compare that to the Canyon Torque, which also has a 490mm reach. It has a shorter top tube length of 636mm due to its steeper 77.5-degree seat tube angle. 15 millimeters might not seem like a lot, but if you’ve ever tried a 35mm stem versus a 50mm stem, you’ll know that’s a noticeable amount.

Reach and top tube length are the two numbers I refer to the most. The third number that is good to know, especially for taller runners, is the stack. This number gives you an idea of ​​how tall or tall the front of the bike is. Taller bars can be used to give you a more upright position, but there are limitations – comparing the stack height of the bike you’re on to the one you’re considering can help you get an idea of ​​this that you will feel. For a deeper dive into the importance of stack, reach and handlebar height, be sure to check out Seb Stott’s great article on the subject.

Confused yet? Let’s hope not, but there’s no denying that all the numbers can be overwhelming. If possible, I highly recommend that you test drive the bike or bikes you are considering. In fact, riding a bike, even if it’s just for a short loop, can make the decision-making process much easier.

Anyway, enough memories, back to your question. How do you improve your chances of being sponsored? Be really good at what you do. It sounds simple, but let’s face it: It’s not really in a company’s best interest to sponsor a mediocre pilot, even if the YouTuber’s rise seems to have changed the game a bit, for better or for worse. the worst. (I vote worst).

Start by creating a promo reel, a short video that shows what you’re capable of on the bike. Make sure it showcases your skills – tricks should be completed cleanly, successful attempts should outweigh crashes, etc. free parts and/or financing help you achieve your goals more easily? Explain to the company what you hope to accomplish over the next year and how their support will help you achieve that goal. If you’re on social media, make sure your posts don’t contain anything that might upset a potential sponsor.

Keep in mind that some companies have limited timeframes for accepting sponsorship applications – which is usually in the fall and early winter. Be persistent without being pushy, and don’t get discouraged if that Monster contract doesn’t show up right away. Keep riding, keep training, and enter events and contests where you can show off your skills. Good luck!

I’d be more inclined to go for something like the Ibis Ripmo AF (if we stick to the aluminum theme) – this bike pedals very well and has a more versatile nature than the brutal Meta TR or Privateer. Or if you didn’t mind having a little less travel, the Specialized 130/140mm Stumpjumper is a great all-around trail bike, and it’s also available in aluminum.

If you get that 141 I’m sure you’ll have a great time, you might want to try getting to those steeper areas a little more often.